Anybody here use or hear of TF Systems Vertical ICF?

Walltech, I"m with WolfCandy3x in not understanding the repeating of the block in various inch increments. Could you explain with an example or diagram? I'm attending a ICF training course soon conducted by Logix, but Fox and Amvic are also available within a reasonable distance. I'd like to understand a bit better before I ask the question. Thanks, Dave

Yes WE have used TF and we will use it again (when it is labor friendly).
 This is a knock down block that works well on a in and out wall with lots of 90 deg. corners in it.
 It is faster in this wall if it is tall and turns in and out, but preambled block will run circles around it on long straight walls.
I think a knock down block is better for all types of walls myself.(just for me )
The storage of other block, transporting and handling is a pain with fully assembled block. (You know What I am talking about) 
A home owner will not see this but a distributor or builder will.
 With a smaller inventory I can make a 4",5",6",8",10"or a 12" wall with all the same panels,and different ties and 3 different corners.
The time and labor , and storage that I save is a big deal. 
 Now I also like the way I can use a chop saw and a table saw to cut the panels to size faster and with less wast.
 This universal wall parts are an advantage to me as a dist./builder because I can do all of this out of a two car garage and have all I need on hand.
The block for a small home can be transported to the job on a car tailer all in one trip.
On the job site I need a lot less room for block , less semitrailers showing up to unload or wait for.
It has more assembly ,YES 3 parts to put together but I do have more time free to do this and it dose not take that long
Every one here has a different look at the icf they like but we all know that its better than wood. 
 Now their are a few different ICF's that I am talking about here not just one.
I do build with preambled block I just don't like to handle it 3 times. I just ship it to the job and cover it so it will not blow it away or get to wet.
I seen a need to show an other view point here.
 
I hope this helps.

Woulfcc, have you ever done a brick ledge with tf system? I checked their web out and looks like the brick ledge would be a bit of work. I thought the tf would be faster on long walls, since each corner needs to be braced which does take time.


Bunt

  I will not do brick ledges like they show in the tf manual.
It is not as strong or as fast as the way I have found that works for me.
 I just use a 10" wall all the way to the footing taper top the outside at the brick ledge an bump the wall in to a 6" wall above.
Most brick ledges are not strong enough, and will fail.
 Just for kicks and you want a easer brick ledge tf will take any other form on top of it .
All you you need to do is cut the bottom teeth off and glue and strap it on.
 The concrete will not care if you mix and Match forums.
  At any cold joint you can change block like this but none of the manufactures will tell you that.
 My table saw can cut off the teeth on any block out their and it will fit any other block.
If see what I am saying and think outside of the block (sorta speaking) it opens your possibility's to do lot of things faster by working with the strong points in every block system.
 No one block has has speed in all application, and speed is money.
Well let see what this post brings out.

Thought about trying tf a while ago, but the brickledge looked labor intensive.  I considered the 10" below grade, but then ya got quite a bit more concrete. As you mentioned, I don't like the typical brick ledges, but I am forced to use them because of cost(even though it takes time to bend stirrups and fuss with brickledge blocks). I am going to be building myself another home here in a short bit and I will be doing the 10" below grade as you mentioned. How do you find framing openings with tf vs blocks systems? Do you use any horizontal rebar at the brick ledge when you do a 10" to 6" transition? Seems like the tf would work well with uneven footings.

Bunt

I hope this works out for you but if it's your brick is more than 8 feet tall you might have a problem with a brick ledge. This is not a place to get cheap on.

Let an engineer tell you the same thing. I am not one , but it's free advice.