RP Watkins. Is the best hanger. No ledger. No brackets there after. It’s all in one.

U make two insitions slide the bracket pour concrete drop the joist. Done.

————

I don’t see how using anchor bolts that won’t match 16oc and will end up in a way of a plastic insert that’s more difficult to drill and slide the bolt through. Might work if u do 24 or 12oc.
Then u have to lift this heavy 2x12 ledger and the. U still buy the brackets to hang the ijoist

At the end $$$$$ more time more bullshit

Where Rp Watkins as I recal cost $11 a bracket? Not sure. Insert and done. Drop ijoist later


Do cost analysis 5/8 anchor bolts I’ll asume $1.50 each double at 24oc
2x12 ledger board. Cost $2 a liner foot. Give or take
Hangers for i joist I’m thinking top mount at $7 each

By all means someone explain how rpwatkins is not an ideal best better cost effective way???????

Posted By Nerotin on 31 Dec 2017 07:28 PM
RP Watkins. Is the best hanger. No ledger. No brackets there after. It’s all in one.

U make two insitions slide the bracket pour concrete drop the joist. Done.

————

I don’t see how using anchor bolts that won’t match 16oc and will end up in a way of a plastic insert that’s more difficult to drill and slide the bolt through. Might work if u do 24 or 12oc.
Then u have to lift this heavy 2x12 ledger and the. U still buy the brackets to hang the ijoist

At the end $$$$$ more time more bullshit

Where Rp Watkins as I recal cost $11 a bracket? Not sure. Insert and done. Drop ijoist later


Do cost analysis 5/8 anchor bolts I’ll asume $1.50 each double at 24oc
2x12 ledger board. Cost $2 a liner foot. Give or take
Hangers for i joist I’m thinking top mount at $7 each

By all means someone explain how rpwatkins is not an ideal best better cost effective way???????

I think that Anchor bolts are cheap and functional, but the extra time makes them less ideal (and not as cheap overall). My biggest concern with RP Watkins hangers is that they must be placed at the perfect elevation, since you cannot adjust the joists after concrete is poured (you can shim/trim each joist, but then you are losing the speed/efficiency). This seems easy, but crazy things can happen when pouring concrete (blocks floating, shifting, etc). On paper, these are the ideal solution, but sometimes on site things are not ideal... just my 2 cents

Watkins does have a one piece ledger hanger. Much heavier than the Simpson two piece.

Posted By smartwall on 04 Jan 2018 07:52 PM
Watkins does have a one piece ledger hanger. Much heavier than the Simpson two piece.

That is my concern with the Watkins hanger. Same basic detail as the ICF-Connect hangers, except the ICF-Connect hangers allow for each joist's elevation to be adjusted as they are installed, while they are simply dropped into the Watkins hanger - no room for adjustment if hangers are not in proper position.

I'm not pouring anymore, but what I always liked to do was to keep the hangers out of the wall until the end of the pour. There is enough crap that impedes the flow without the hangers at the top. The laser is set up and the elevation of a furring strip is checked to establish level for the hangers. Slid them in and finish the pour. You can also use a form with no compression.

7 year old thread - I like it!!!

I'm pretty much out of the game now, I have done most types of install, always looking for the better mouse trap

1. Anchor Bolts were always the most cost effective way to hang a rim board - read - cheapest
2. Inserting the joists directly into the concrete wall was just me showing off - I knew I could do it - I did it and proved myself - requires blocking installed between the joists to complete the diaphragm and temp 2x and legs to hold the bottom of the joists until concrete placed and set
3. Simpson hangers - fast and easy - you can make a mistake, be off horizontally by a few inches and it still works - very forgiving
4. Watkins - To expensive to import into Canada with exchange rate, so I had 300 or so cut/pressed and bent by a metal shop up here for a townhouse project, probably cost me around $10 each when done after buying the proper screws - accuracy was the issue, required precision when setting, a few were off and we had to cut and eliminate and drill and epoxy T.R. after the fact
5. Nudura hanger - we tried the prototypes before they were release to market, lots of up front work to no real time savings, again needed blocking installed to complete the diaphragm - the 'repair' kit was a good idea incase you missed or had to change something after the pour

Bottom line, find what works best for you, as codes change and engineering gets tighter and tighter, someone will come up with a new product before long