Wet setting the vertical rebar coming out of the footing is pretty much standard practice here and what we did with my footing. The concrete is generally stiff enough to hold them up.  You may have a couple that lean - just come back in 10-15 minutes after the concrete has stiffened up a bit and straighten them up.  Have some wood stakes set out beyond your footings so you can run string lines from corner to corner after the concrete is leveled off to provide a straight line on where to set the verticals. If you are using ICF, make sure you set your verticals in from the corners the recommended distance so they line up with the cells in the ICF - you don't want the rebar lining up with the ties in the ICF. Every 2' on center is pretty standard spacing for above grade walls and should work with most ICFs having ties every 6" or 8" on center. Mine were set on 16" in my basement to line up with my vertical rebar set on 16" centers. Remember not to set vertical rebar where you have doorways, otherwise you will have to come back with a grinder and cut them off.

Another thing you might consider for your slab edge forming is Fab-Form Fastfoot fabric footing forms. Here is a link to my project on the Fab-Form website (they sent me a couple of T-shirts for sending them the photos):

http://www.fab-form.com/fastfoot/fa...nSmith.php

Since you are in GA, I assume that red clay will look familiar.

Posted By jonr on 13 Apr 2013 10:08 AM
I wonder how well a UFER ground works when the entire foundation or slab is isolated from the soil by plastic sheet and foam.

Not very well.  And I don't think it is approved either.  The concrete needs to be in direct contact with the soil for at least 20' if I remember correctly.  Since I used fastfoot under my basement footings I didn't use that for an Ufer ground.  But when I poured my attached garage footings, they didn't have any plastic under them and I used that horizontal rebar in the footing trench as a ground.

4" is easy to pour I use Helix and Fritz Pak high range water reducer no.7 with a lower aggregate mix. No vibrator needed. You end up with more sq footage of floor space, smaller bucks and some customers like the thinner walls and best of all my competitors won't do it.

Smartwall, how many boxes of Helix are you using per concrete truck, 3K or 4K PSI, still using rebar for the lintels, and what seismic zone?

10 Lbs per yd 4000psi, 40% flyash, rebar for lintels and low risk seismic Adirondack foothills of upstate NY

Thanks Smartwall. Some engineers/contractors are beginning to do the lintels with a higher density of Helix and adding red dye to this mix for inspection purposes. Not sure that dealing with two mixes is worth the reduced labor of doing rebar lintels.