This is a crude drawing. But, it illustrates: (1) the gap between the laminated additions to the Nudura forms. (2) The proposed second row of nubs. (3) The location of the nailing strip needs to be re-designed and moved to the outer portion of the form. This would require a redesign of the form, and of course production tooling to support it. If you're building a super-insulated home/structure, the goal is to eliminate/mitigate all these marginal details. I'm a big proponent of Nudura, but I also think they need to build on a successful system and evolve this product to capture market share. Very few, if any alpine/arctic projects are built with stucco exterior, especially using forms that have gaps, and foam that naturally has some modest shrinkage. Screwing on hard product siding would be better IMO. Hope this helps! Thanks for all the comments!

Attachment - 2nd try.

I think a good way to prevent the Plus series from creating that gap you demonstrated above, is to apply EPS glue to that extra EPS layer BEFORE the forms are locked together. The EPS glue will bridge the gap between the forms and help seal them.

Lbear - thanks! The EPS glue may be the ticket. great idea. I went ahead and ordered 3 of the 6" plus series forms, a bunk of inserts and a bunch of 12" webs. The forms cannot be purchased un-assembled, so I'll be extracting the 6" webs, placing the 12 webs, then adding in a wire brick tie for my stone work and placing the 6" inserts. I'm just doing a mock-up wall to see how this sorts out. Will share pics in the spring once I get it built. Thanks all for the input!

Cbrynadal,
Are you using the Nudura Plus Series R-value inserts (AND) the Laminate on one-side? Regards

Wouldn't installing the Nudura inserts offset, so the insert overlaps the primary form joints, also accomplish some of this?

Then the weight of the concrete would make sure to push the insert up against the inside of the form tightly.

This would help with issues like sealing joints and probably help prevent concrete blowouts and cut down on concrete leakage at the joints themselves.

TexasICF, this will be a massive wall. That's why I'm doing a mock-up before moving ahead with it. Once I get the mockup built, then I'll work on the timber-frame mock-up of the roof structure.

The schematic would be as follows.

Sections delimited below by pipe symbol "|"

|---6"granite---|---1"air---|---6"Plus---|---2-5/8panel---|---6"insert---|---6"concrete&rebar---|---2-5/8panel---|---5/8"drywall(2)---| conditioned space

The total wall comes out to be ~31.25" wide and has a theoretical R-value of 72.745. (fully expect actuals to be ~10% less)

There will be low-expansion foam used to fill in the voids between the insert billets.

I've discovered a cast-in-place 2-piece adjustable brick tie that meets code and alleviates nailing strip concerns. (these will be custom made)

I've biased the insulation towards the outside of the structure, and placed the rock (non-structural) outside of a 1" +/- air gap.

We are in Climate Zone 7, at 10,000' so there is no air-conditioning cooling need.

Note: the green Nudura foam material has an R-value of 4 per inch. The type-2 foam billets (inserts) material is 3.8/inch.

Dilettante - the concern will be addressed with low-expansion foam where the 12 webs are located. I expect the notched billets will also be used to bridge gaps between blocks to both seal, and as a strength member where possible. Yes, the concrete weight will seat the billet for sure. Excellent point! I really like the EPS glue idea for the flat interfaces, as there is some give in the foam, the glue will certainly adhere stronger. This will be tested, so I'll share the results!