Here are 35 free tips.............
1. Choosing the panels:
a) Core - EPS or PU …….. EPS does not” off gas” or shrink is stable and does not loose R-value with age. PU “off gasses” for months, can cause blistering and delamination of the skin, shrinks and loses R value with age. EPS is also available with borate to prevent pest infestation.
b) Skins – Steel typically available in 26. Ga. Galvalume, G – 90 galvanized and optional stainless steel. Galvalume or G-90 both have their advantages. Aluminum skins are available in .019, .024 & .032 skins. Only the .032 skin has any value in building use, the thinner skins are only good for patio/carport applications.
c) Joint connection – some panels need screw attachment, some are splined, some are cam locked, snap locked and T&G friction fit. It is our opinion that the T&G friction fit with no fasteners is the fastest and avails the most jobsite flexibility.
2. Base channels – 18 ga. G-90 galvanized steel is the most common, where channels are not covered with cladding and in a salt air environment it is advisable to a minimum .060 painted aluminum channel.
3. Anchorage: to a slab or block foundation – anchor bolts, wedge anchors or wedge bolts are used. Wedge bolts are advantageous as they can be easily removed and replaced. When installing on a wood/steel floor deck – consult engineered plans for method of attachment.
4. Check slab for square-ness, make any adjustments now!
5. Strike chalk lines for base track locations, mark door openings and cut channels to size before bolting into place.
6. Base sealant: an expandable spray foam or good bead of caulk sealant should be used to prevent iar infiltration under base track.
7. Before placing panels in base make sure the track is not “crimped-in” , track can be tapped back into place with a hammer.
8. Installing wall panels: start in a corner tie 2 corner panels together plumb and level.
9. A magnetic level is advantageous with steel panels , allowing an “extra” hand.
10. Butt corner connections are stronger that mitered.
11. One person should place one end or the other in the track, do not attempt to place the entire panel all at once, the result will be frustration in fighting against each other. One end gets started….. THEN drop the other end in.
12. Two 6”- 8” drywall taping knives work great at “shoe horning” the panel into the track
13. Make sure screw attachment is made both inside and out before proceeding to next panel.
14. Continue with next panels, panels are easier to push into place down low. Check each panel as you go for plumb.
15. Do not “over spin” or “strip out” screws in track/panel, set driver clutch accordingly.
16. Push panels tightly together before attaching at base, if you are not sure panels are tight; place a 2x4 ON EDGE and tap with a large hammer / small sledge to “bottom out” to next panel. The sound distinctly changes to a solid “thud” when panel to panel contact is made.
17. If the top of the panel won’t stay in place you can secure with one stich screw at the panel joint – 1” down from top.
18. Install top pitched cap and rake caps as you go along, do not get too far along without securing top, but only fasten outside of pitched top cap channel at this time.
19. Bracing: as needed, coastal areas and 2 stories are more critical due to potential wind. 20 ft. sections of base track works well for wall bracing.
20. When working off a slab electric scissor lifts are invaluable for working at the top of walls, setting ridge beams and setting roof panels.
21. It is not necessary to cut out all window and door opening until they are needed, closed off they also will keep out the weather.
22. Eye protection: the obvious when cutting anything, but in addition most metal panels are white and in the sun are extremely bright; please wear sunglasses to prevent snow blindness.
23. Any metal cutting saw will work and only needs to be deep enough to cut skin / joint interlock. We prefer the Kett -423 saw.
24. Extremely important for aesthetic reasons is to immediately brush away saw chips form panel surface. If left on long enough for moisture, dew or water to come in contact it will allow a rust stain on the finish to appear and while it is not the skin rusting you will have a hard time explaining to the customer that it is not.
25. Assemble ridge box beams on a flat surface
26. Take a bunch of sips screws and install the flat or neo washers in advance of needing them
27. Before installing first roof panel put pencil marks on the bottom skin to gauge correct rake overhang from below.
28. Once first panel is aligned with pencil marks, take a hammer and drive the first SIP screw thru the top skin and foam until it reaches the bottom skin, then drill in with drill or driver
29. SIP Heavy Duty Screws are for 16ga. or thicker steel
30. SIP Light Duty Screws are for 18 ga. Or lighter steel, aluminum channels or attachment to wood beams. Etc.
31. Heavy Duty SIP Screws drill in best when installed @ approx.. 500 rpm. Any faster and the tips may burn up.
32. A small piece of carpet laid over the top of the wall cap will protect the underside finished soffit metal.
33. In most cases it advisable to switch installing the roof from one side to the other about every sixth panel so as not to overload the beam / walls on one side.
34. Make sure to “dimple” the roof panel with roof screw/washer to allow finished roofing to lay flat.
35. Spot check to make sure the pitch cap is sucked up tight to the underside of the panel, if it is not go back and re-torque screws to do so.Once panels lay flat and tight to the pitched cap, then you can install the inside top cap/ panel screws