So I can't recall off the top of my head what the air leakage ratings of these windows was advertised as, but it was 3x the code minimum. I'll tell you though I'm certainly not getting that level, not even close. The original windows in my parents 1850s farmhouse are better with just some 40 year old storms on the outside. What can I do at this point? Is there any product that can be installed at the top corners of the sash (where the tilt in cleaning tabs are) because that is where the most leaking occurs.

Here's a link with some pictures of the issues and thermal images

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/965qwl159r8sl8p/AADHl2nF4sPeribkgdHV_utea?dl=0

Here's a link with some pictures of the issues and thermal images

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/965qwl159r8sl8p/AADHl2nF4sPeribkgdHV_utea?dl=0

Sounds like your complaint is with the manufacturer. Can't imagine needing to repair brand new windows. Need a blower door test for the necessary info.

I have a blower door teat scheduled for Thursday.

How much air should one feel coming through that area of the window??? I would have thought none.....

I have a blower door teat scheduled for Thursday.

How much air should one feel coming through that area of the window??? I would have thought none.....

I have a blower door teat scheduled for Thursday.

How much air should one feel coming through that area of the window??? I would have thought none.....

I have a blower door rest scheduled for Thursday.

How much air should one feel coming through that corner of the window? I would have thought none!!

Was any leak testing done on these windows when they arrived?
BEFORE they were installed?

Posted By Dilettante on 01 Feb 2019 01:51 PM
Was any leak testing done on these windows when they arrived?
BEFORE they were installed?

Not that I'm aware of??

How do you test windows before they are installed? That has to be done by a testing lab. I looked at the testing on the windows depending on which model you have, the numbers are very good. The only window that doesn't leak air is one that doesn't open.

Posted By smartwall on 02 Feb 2019 07:36 AM
How do you test windows before they are installed? That has to be done by a testing lab. I looked at the testing on the windows depending on which model you have, the numbers are very good. The only window that doesn't leak air is one that doesn't open.

Yea I know, they were highly rated. But I can tell you from experience they might as well be cracked open a hair they leak sSSSSOOOOOOOOOO MUCH!!!. I'm hoping I can get a report from my energy audit and bring it to the supplier and get some kind of dialogue going with the manufacturer to see what the heck is going on.

The blower door will spot the problem. Take video of the smoke pencil around the meeting rail. I'm supprised since most window companies use the same set ups. What is on the bottom of the top sash where the windows meet? This seem to be where you're problems are. Can you post a picture?

I added some more pictures to this drop box file. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/965qwl159r8sl8p/AADHl2nF4sPeribkgdHV_utea?dl=0

The leaks can be felt in the corners. Looking at the design of the window I'm not sure that seam is the problem. It seems like the air must be coming in on the sides, then up past where the tilt out feature is.

I will say that some of the sashes don't seem square in the frame. I've triple checked the frames for plumb level and square, and they all are. What's extra odd is that All but one of these are mulled windows and only one of the two lower panes will be off, but not both. Also, even if one seems off, both will leak.

I've never had this problem with the dozens of other windows I've installed.

If your getting air at the bottom sash tilt latches, it would seem to be the bottom bulb on the sash. Windows are double weatherstripped but the bulb on the bottom sash is the only defense against air leaks on that sash. Does the window have balance covers? This is interesting I wish I could sea them for myself. Tilt the sash in and check the diagonal measurement corner to corner.

Right, given that this is a log home, I would look at the dimensions and see if things are out of square or out of alignment. I understand that properly installing doors/windows in log homes such that they don't leak is extremely challenging and almost impossible. Yes, these windows should perform much better than you are experiencing...in a home with a more conventional structure that doesn't settle and change dimensionally. How did you solve this issue?

So my blower door came back at 1050 CFM at 50 negative pressure. For my size house the guy said that's the best score he's seen in his 12 years of doing the rest. But I'm wondering what you guys think? I personally find that impossible to believe because it just feels so much colder and draftier than any other house I've been in. Is that really that good of a score? I assume you need to know the square footage or cubic feet of air in my house wouldn't you? My house is a 40x40 foot square, full basement, and a second story that is roughly have of the area, 20x40, with the other 20x40 half being open to above. The entire roof structure is a cathedral ceiling. So going off of square footage may not be the most accurate way to see if I have a good blower door number. My cubic feet of airspace is roughly 29,800, and 42,700 if you count the basement (which was not sealed off during the test.) I f

Posted By smartwall on 03 Feb 2019 04:01 PM
If your getting air at the bottom sash tilt latches, it would seem to be the bottom bulb on the sash. Windows are double weatherstripped but the bulb on the bottom sash is the only defense against air leaks on that sash. Does the window have balance covers? This is interesting I wish I could sea them for myself. Tilt the sash in and check the diagonal measurement corner to corner.

I think you are on to something here. when you look from outside, it seems that the weatherstripping isn't making contact across the entire bottom, and is extra compressed in the middle. So the bottom of the frame must be in crooked or bent I guess? More pictures -https://www.dropbox.com/sh/j2gxy0kxrrllbks/AACQm1IaWT1G7wKQqsrPbu1Za?dl=0

Simple Water leak test:
https://youtu.be/Fkvv6T9KdFc

Simple window pane seal failure test:
https://youtu.be/IZZ0_54PgzM

As for air leakage, yep, blower-door testing.

Posted By loghomebuilder on 07 Feb 2019 05:35 PM
So my blower door came back at 1050 CFM at 50 negative pressure. For my size house the guy said that's the best score he's seen in his 12 years of doing the rest. But I'm wondering what you guys think? I personally find that impossible to believe because it just feels so much colder and draftier than any other house I've been in. Is that really that good of a score? I assume you need to know the square footage or cubic feet of air in my house wouldn't you? My house is a 40x40 foot square, full basement, and a second story that is roughly have of the area, 20x40, with the other 20x40 half being open to above. The entire roof structure is a cathedral ceiling. So going off of square footage may not be the most accurate way to see if I have a good blower door number. My cubic feet of airspace is roughly 29,800, and 42,700 if you count the basement (which was not sealed off during the test.) I f

What was the actual ACH rating.
Because 1050 CFM on a 1000 sq/ft home is going to mean something significantly different than a 1050 CFM on a 6000 sq/ft home.