I’m in the planning stages for a farm shop that will be used primarily by my husband. Early on in my research I priced out pole buildings and the more I looked at it, the more it seemed to me that a frame construction might be better for us in the long term. But I still want use metal siding vs vinyl or fiber cement. I’m having trouble figuring out the best way to insulate a stud frame structure while still accommodating an easy (typical) installation for metal siding.

Big-picture Specs, if it helps:
Purpose/Use: Farm shop, daily use throughout the year, heat it to ~50 in winter, no AC
Location: south central PA
Size: 30x50x14 heated, 40x12x11 unheated lean-to shed
Orientation: 50’ side faces solar south, and lean-to on north side
Foundation: Footing and 2’8” CMU wall
Floor: stone, 6 mil plastic, 1 or 2” XPS, 5” slab, pex for future radiant
Walls: drywall, 2x6 w/ fiberglass batts, OSB, 1” blue-board, 2x4 girts, metal siding
Roof: metal or drywall ceiling, blown in insulation, trusses, purlins, vented metal roofing

For the walls, both the rigid foam and the OSB raise some problems for the metal siding installation. And I’m not sure at all about the moisture issues inside the wall in our mixed climate (with no AC in the summer...). Should there be a vapor barrier, and where?

I’m open to ANY suggestions. Thanks so much!

The perfect solution is :  http://www.greenbuildingtalk.com/Fo...fault.aspx

attached over your purlins/girts would provide,roofing , siding, insulation and interior finish

We used to insulate pole barns for a large builder and their super energy package had purlins in and out with steel on both sides. This created a ballon frame into the attic and we blew insulation in the sidewalls and attic at the same time. It was super fast and vary afforable.

cmkavala, thanks for the input on the steel sips - an interesting idea that I hadn't thought of.

I've learned a lot by reading through these posts and other references - but I still rely on the the contractors in my area who will actually be doing the work because obviously their experience far and away outreaches mine. It seems like, to me, the rigid foam over OSB is a no brainer for energy efficiency. But then when it comes down to construction details, I'm getting statements of concern from contractors about the "solidness" of the install when the metal siding will be attached to girts that are themselves attached through 1" foam & OSB to hopefully hit a stud. They prefer to just have the stud wall and girts. They'll live with the OSB (which I prefer for structural strength in our very windy location). But they really don't want to work with the rigid foam layer in between the OSB and the stringers - or at the very least they seriously question the common sense in doing so. Also, I've heard comments like "We don't even do that on houses, much less a shop." So, maybe I'm overshooting in terms of quality?

It just seems to me that if my husband and I are going to be daily working in this building for the next 25+ years, we might as well try to make it comfortable. Also, we've been discussing the possibility of SHW for the radiant in the shop slab. We would build the solar panels ourselves and we have a heck of a lot of south wall to work with. Of course that is a whole 'nother project! (A very fun one!!) But if the SHW radiant is to have any hope of working, I would think getting the building envelope well insulated up front is a must.

affordable

Posted By smartwall on 28 Mar 2010 08:52 AM
We used to insulate pole barns for a large builder and their super energy package had purlins in and out with steel on both sides. This created a ballon frame into the attic and we blew insulation in the sidewalls and attic at the same time. It was super fast and vary afforable.

smartwall, very neat idea. I had stepped back from a pole barn because the companies I had talked to didn't seem to offer much in the way of insulation. Also since we envisioned building out the interior for fire resistance which my husband was thinking of just framing it up and drywall (roughly done) ... well it seemed to me we were adding a lot of conventional framing to the interior of the pole building. And I was never able to get a firm answer on whether or not the slab would have heave problems. So I jumped to a foundation and stud wall structure. So while I have drawings and I'm a little down the road on the current conventionally framed plan, it would not be impossible to go back and reconsider a pole structure.

The idea you mention seems like it would offer good insulation levels and I LIKE the affordable part. Do you know what, if anything, was done at the ground level of a pole building insulated as you describe? Does it need to be sealed from the ground for water vapor or rodent problems?
Thanks for the input - much appreciated!

If you are considering a standard pole barn package, the easiest thing to do would be spray foam insulation directly onto the walls before finishing the interior. This will give basically the same overall R value with a lot less work/expense compared to your original idea.
Also, if the shop is to be used for mechanical/welding type work, I would forego the drywall and use steel liner panels for the interior finish, walls and ceiling. Drywall can suck up fumes from these activities which, I think, reduces its usable lifespan, not to mention the inevitable holes that have to be repaired.

i think that can be done quite easily.

This might be something to look at for your southern wall.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/gree...0zsie.aspx

there are a bunch of home made glazed solar heater plans online as well.

. The framing is BIG metal beams though, so you'll need a crane or similar equipment to erect the framing. You'll have to contact local contractors to get a price on installing the building. just visit her once
http://www.steelbuildingsupplier.com