Ren, I'd like to see them and will pm. thanks.

I'd be curious to learn if the architect has an opinion. Please keep us up to date on this important issue.

What are the inner/outer R value(s) of the ICF?

A few comments:

If it was sunny the day before, the heat emission from the south side walls might be measurably higher than from the north due to higher temps in the concrete.

If the windows are low-E heat-rejecting type for lower summertime cooling loads the temperature indicated in the thermal imaging will be substantially lower than reality.

even without looking at the pictures, I would've taken a guess that the roof temperature, since metal, would simply read the same as outside temperature.

A thermal imaging camera measures radiation intensity, not temperature directly. The radiated energy is proportional to the emissivity at the wavelengths where the measurement is made, typically around 10 microns for room temp. measurements. A shiny metal roof might reflect 80% of infrared radiation at 10 microns, giving it an emissivity of 20%, or 0.2. The camera will typically assume a high emissivity, so the estimated temperature will be very low compared to the actual temperature. Brick has an emissivity of higher than 0.9, so the estimated temperature will be high compared to metal roof at the same actual temperature. Low-e windows are, by definition, low IR emissivity, so estimated temps. will likely be low, but screens will tend to increase the emitted energy.

IR images are mostly useful to look at temperature variations across a surface of constant emissivity, such as thermal bridging by studs in a wall, missing insulation in walls or ceilings, etc. See http://www.bacto.com.au/downloads/IR%20&%20Emissivity.pdf for more details.

Lee
www.ResidentialEnergyLaboratory
in a net-zero energy house

Thanks to all for your comments. Lee, I found your explanation to be very interesting. We are thinking of taking photos with a much higher quality camera...would that make a difference in the photos that will be taken? Also, I will take exterior photos, interior, and some of the attic (well I hope).

Let me know if you can. Thanks,

Ren

Ren-

I had some IR images taken at my house, and the pictures and my interpretation are at
http://www.residentialenergylaborat...mages.html  These included exterior and interior.  Your pictures were taken at a better time than mine, which were just after sunset, although I did get a low temp. of 10 F or lower.  I did not put much emphasis on the measured temps. as they are not accurate except for relative comparisons of objects with the same emissivity.   

You talked about imaging with a higher quality camera.  That will not resolve the problem of varying and unknown emissivities in the images.  Some cameras allow you to adjust the assumed emissivity used to compute the temp., and my last post included a link to approaches.  However, within an image of different objects of different emissivities, it is not possible to correct for the varying emissivities.  If you want to know the temps., use a thermistor.  The IR images are better for finding cold or hot spots across a uniform field.

Lee Dodge
http://www.residentialenergylaboratory.com
in a net-zero energy house

What Lee said, regarding what IR imaging is really measuring. The "temperature" is just relative to a presumed emissivity, which will vary greatly by material & finish. (You COULD just spray paint the entire place with a paint of your choosing, including the glass, to even that out. :-) ).

It's possible to burn yourself on a shiny copper pipe full of heating system water that measures barely above body temperature using an IR camera.

...and using flat black would allow you to assume a uniform emissivity near unity.   Carbon black would work nicely.

Lee

Lee,

Thank you for your input as well as the others. I am going back to the building tomorrow morning (6:30 AM) to take some additional pictures with a stronger thermal imagining camera. We are going to take shots from outside, inside, and probably gain access to the roof area.

With that said, would anyone give me some thoughts on something specific to try and shoot (outside, inside, attic area)?

Thanks again.

Ren

Ren, Although I do agree with the emissivity discussion, it would be valuable to know if when you are in the "attic" area you can see the thermal transition on the floor into the attic itself since this is bat. I believe most of this discussion was in email but I still believe that the readings for the metal roof (although consistent with emissivity) are also consistent in your photos where the roof appears to be colder (in photo of attic with horizontal attic insulation) because the roof is basically "outside". Likewise, roof appears to be warmer on the auditorium where the roof represents the boundry itself (insulation is part of the roof). Good luck. Regards.

Ren,

For inside thermal images, I would consider hooking up a blower door, if one is available, or a simple window fan blowing outward and sealed around the edges with plywood (or stiff cardboard) and duct tape.  Evacuate the house slightly and use the thermal camera to take images around every penetration into the house looking for cold air infiltration -- doors, windows, the dryer, plumbing, electrical, fireplace, floor-wall interface, ceiling-wall interface, etc.  Take a picture with a regular camera of the same subject, and keep notes for each image so yhat you can identify the IR images.  If a smoke pencil is available, use it at the same time.  Do not use the blower/fan when taking images on the outside.  

On the outside, I would take images of another house with a different type of construction and/or not as well insulated under the same conditions for comparison, but get permission first.     

Lee Dodge
http://www.residentialenergylaboratory.com
in a net-zero energy house

Thank Texas and Lee,

Lee the building is 105,000 sqft, so I do not think that the blowdoor test will really work. Will be taking photos of another building on site as well, however it is brick with 2 x 6 steel frame. The brick will have a high emissivity number and the metal seam roof will have a low one. I will try to get another photo though of another building/house nearby.

Ren-

If you are able to pull a slight vacuum on the house with a blower, make sure that you first fill all drains with some water so that the traps will work, including emergency drains that are often dry. Otherwise you suck sewer gas into the house.

Lee